White Gold Bracelet with Sapphires and Diamonds, Hugo Strömdahl, Stockholm

In Scandinavia, during the later years of the Art Deco period, designs emerged that incorporated precious materials into understated yet expressive forms. Colour, rhythm, and precise proportions defined the impact of these small jewels, as this bracelet—crafted in Stockholm in 1940—so vividly demonstrates. Its centerpiece is arranged in a strictly structured sequence of five natural sapphires and four larger round diamonds. The deep-blue sapphires are rectangularly faceted and together weigh approximately one carat. Their linear cut echoes the geometric design of the bracelet, which plays with light and shadow. Set between the sapphires in the center section are four diamonds in a historic diamond cut style totaling approximately 0.24 carats, and narrow bands comprising a total of 70 small diamond roses flank the precious setting above and below. Like a sparkling border, they connect the individual links of this showpiece into a cohesive composition. Delicately engraved, fan-like ornaments on the slightly curved side sections enliven the clean geometry of the band. The flexibly interconnected elements made of 18-karat white gold carry forward the design concept of the centerpiece in a simpler form, allowing the bracelet to drape softly around the wrist. The cool hue of the white gold provides the ideal backdrop for the intense blue of the sapphires and the white sparkle of the diamonds. The underside of the clasp bears the maker's mark of the Stockholm goldsmith Hugo Strömdahl, as well as a combination of numbers and letters that allows us to precisely date the goldsmith’s work to the year 1940. Although Stockholm was in the midst of World War II in 1940, Sweden itself remained neutral and was not directly involved in the war. The city was neither occupied nor turned into a theater of war. That is why, even in dark times, beautiful jewelry could still be created there—unlike in most major European cities. We discovered the bracelet in the Süddeutscher.

Stima:€3,690

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