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Tutte le aste / Gioielli & Gemme / Vintage Pendant-Brooch with an Untreated Ceylon Sapphire, ca. 1935


Waves of white light wash over a sky-blue sapphire like waves on a beach. The brilliant center stone is clear and of an intense blue. It weighs approximately 6.30 ct and is untreated—that is, it has not been heated or otherwise enhanced by human intervention. Only a few inclusions within it confirm its quality and origin from Sri Lanka, historically known as Ceylon: long considered one of the finest source regions for high-quality sapphires. A total of 3.50 ct of diamonds frame the sapphire. Larger stones in a step cut are set between arches adorned with smaller diamonds. An oval frame, also set with diamonds, completes the design on the outside. All diamonds are set in platinum. A white radiance—nothing but bright light—thus frames the first-class sapphire. Pieces of jewellery that were “versatile”—meaning they could be worn, for example, as both a brooch and a pendant—were all the rage c. 1900. Necklaces could be worn as tiaras, and hair combs could be transformed into brooches and pendants. Such pieces of jewellery are less common in Art Deco, yet their practical appeal was never entirely forgotten. This piece of jewellery, too, can be worn both as a pendant and as a brooch. Using the included platinum screwdriver, a brooch clasp or a diamond-set pendant loop can be attached. The basic shape of the design—an elongated oval—also recalls jewellery from the turn of the century. However, the cuts of the diamonds indicate that it must have been created somewhat later. Together with other details, such as the robust settings and the somewhat flatly rendered arches, we believe that the pendant was created around 1935—possibly crafted or commissioned by someone whose eye was still trained on the magnificent jewels of the turn of the century. An independent appraisal from Vienna is available regarding the quality of the materials, and an additional appraisal of the sapphire has confirmed its origin in Sri Lanka as well as the fact that it is untreated. Both appraisals are included with the piece of jewellery.
Stima:€20,980
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