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9d 11hDEHofer Antikschmuck

Vintage bracelet with 6.85 ct diamonds in white gold, around 1960

Vintage bracelet with 6.85 ct diamonds in white gold, around 1960

With each generation, fashions change, also in the history of jewellery. The white, cool shine of Art Deco was followed by the lust for yellow gold of the 1930s and 1940s. Then, in the course of the 1950s, the pendulum swung back again: white gold and platinum increasingly came back into fashion. The bracelet presented here shows this lust of the years around 1960 for luxurious diamonds in elegant white. The design is compact: a double row of brilliant cut diamonds forms a narrow bracelet with a large loop at its centre. Here, brilliant cut diamonds and diamond baguettes are grouped in several concentric arcs around a central navette cut diamond. It is typical of the period in which the design was created that not only brilliant cut diamonds were used, but also baguettes and large marquise cut stones. The design is thus less round and smooth than the jewellery of earlier eras, but rather powerful and individual. In the course of the 1960s, this tendency will continue until it reaches designs that seem downright spiky. Here, however, the design seeks harmony - and finds it in the combination of bracelet and bow, symmetry and variety. Even today, the bracelet exudes the sophisticated elegance of its time, which knew how to combine progress and tradition in the best possible way. We discovered this precious piece of jewellery in London. For dating, see also the examples illustrated in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, p. 396 and p. 434 ff. and the explanatory text ibid.

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