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Tutte le aste / Gioielli & Gemme / Stunning Vintage Brooch With 5.18 ct Diamonds in Platinum, ca. 1960


Jewellery designers broke new ground in the postwar era. The new sense of form was characterized by an almost casual asymmetry that enlivened even the heaviest diamond designs and gave them an optimistic esprit. Abstract borrowings from ribbons and bows, executed in platinum or white gold, were joined into slightly three-dimensional compositions and set with sparkling diamonds. The brooch presented here speaks that new language of this new era. It presents itself as an elegant composition of swaying lines, reminiscent of ribbons of fabric fluttering in the wind as if by chance. Ninety-nine diamonds in various cuts set the piece of jewellery, forcing the platinum almost to invisibility. The stones have a total weight of 5.185 carats and transform the brooch into a glistening play of white light reflections. The design belongs to the fixed repertoire of forms of the time. The varied cuts of the diamonds and the workmanship also speak the lively language of the post-war years, when precious white jewels were appreciated for the evening. Indeed, the separation of jewellery for day and jewellery for evening, already known in the 19th century, still continued to apply. Diamonds in white gold or platinum settings were permitted for balls and receptions, sometimes enriched by individual rubies, sapphires or emeralds. The brooch, which came to us from a noble Hanseatic estate, is excellently preserved and animated by a dreamlike inner fire. We have had an appraisal made in Idar-Oberstein, which once again independently confirms the quality of the diamonds. It is supplied with the brooch.
Stima:€13,790
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