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Tutte le aste / Gioielli & Gemme / Precious Diamond Brooch With Natural Pearl, Paris ca. 1890


Paris, shortly before 1900: luxury, joie de vivre and beauty had been elevated to the ideal of the last decades of the 19th century. The Belle Époque revelled in wealth and splendour. The world's most beautiful dancers danced at the Moulin Rouge, and couples of the highest society met atop the brand-new Eiffel Tower. Artists of all countries flocked to the city, bringing new art to light; poets met in the cafés. At the new Opera Garnier, Parisian high society flaunted their gowns and finery, always of the latest fashion. This brooch of those years presents itself in a harmony of white: pearls and diamonds shine in its light and are set in silver. The design shows a vine, which forms a frame for a blossom of two large diamonds and one natural pearl. A total of around 4.00 carats of diamonds are set here. The free, elegant distribution of the leaves, sometimes to the right and sometimes to the left, already hints at Art Nouveau's delight in the world of floral forms. At the same time, the closed form is reminiscent of the crook of a bishop's crook. The fact that the brooch shines in the cool brilliance of silver to support the light of the diamonds and pearls in the best possible way was the usual technique at a time when white gold or platinum were not yet available to goldsmiths. The back of the piece is made of high karat gold to avoid stains on clothes or skin. The hallmarks of the brooch show that it was made in France, more precisely in Paris. We discovered it in the Rhineland.
Stima:€9,890
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