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Tutte le aste / Gioielli & Gemme / Precious Bracelet with Burma Rubies, Diamonds & Pearls in Gold, c. 1940


This bracelet wraps itself around the arm like a carpet of shimmering golden summer flowers. Eight identically designed elements are arranged in a seemingly endless sequence. Each element is set with a sparkling, high-quality, shining white diamond. Four flowers, two of ruby and two of pearl, are grouped around the diamond. Small leaves and ribbons fill the remaining areas. An elegantly curved frame surrounds the symmetrically designed composition. The bracelet is very precious. The diamonds, a total of around 2.00 ct of brilliant-cut diamonds, shine white and show only very small or small white inclusions. Their brilliance is very good. The rubies come from Burma and are untreated, i.e. not heated or otherwise enhanced by humans. The pearls are also of very good quality, with a very good lustre and very uniform color, shape and size. Finally, the gold used is high-carat (18 carat) and also has a velvety overlay of fine gold. The bracelet has been designed with great attention to detail. Its design language is still influenced by the 1920s, by Expressionism and Art Deco. At the same time, however, it was probably created a little later, just before or shortly after the Second World War. Jewelry in warm yellow gold was once again very fashionable at the time, and Art Déco designs of the time were often reminiscent of past eras, such as Biedermeier or the jewellery of antiquity. Here it is the symmetrically placed small golden spheres around the diamonds, so-called granulations, which are directly inspired by the jewellery of the Etruscans. Granulations became very popular again in Germany in the 1930s and remained so until the 1960s. We discovered the bracelet here in Berlin. We immediately liked its heavy, solid workmanship and precious features. It is an exceptionally beautiful example of the warm, opulent taste of the period.
Stima:€14,890
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