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Tutte le aste / Gioielli & Gemme / Late Victorian Pearl and Turquoise Brooch in Gold, British, c. 1900

6d 14hDEHofer Antikschmuck

Late Victorian Pearl and Turquoise Brooch in Gold, British, c. 1900

Late Victorian Pearl and Turquoise Brooch in Gold, British, c. 1900

Victorian jewellery often plays with sentimental symbolism. This luxurious brooch made of Persian turquoises and natural pearls is a beautiful example. The 15-karat gold piece takes the form of a stylized, circular bow with turquoises nestled around it like precious fruit. The two elegantly overlapping ends lend the design a dynamic asymmetry and, like the movably suspended turquoise, break up the strictness of the composition. Bows are an old symbol of connection and were particularly common around 1900, when our brooch was also made. The materials also emphasize the romantic connotation of the design: Turquoise, for example, was understood as a stone of memory, as its color is reminiscent of forget-me-not flowers. The pearl, on the other hand, was regarded as the symbol of Venus, the goddess of love, who according to legend was also born from a shell. In our brooch, this duet has been combined into a beautiful composition. For dating, see the numerous impressive examples in David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 281-284.

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