Granulated Vintage Tourmailne Gold Ring, Germany c. 1955

This 1950s ring demonstrates an ancient goldsmithing technique of exceptional craftsmanship that is rarely used today. Because it is so incredibly difficult to master, most goldsmiths of our time almost never dare to produce pieces of jewellery like this. We are talking about granulation. In this originally Etruscan goldsmith technique, tiny gold or silver beads are soldered onto a precious metal in such a way that they are only connected to each other at their respective tiny points of contact. Light and shadow on the granulated surfaces create a three-dimensional effect, and this is precisely what makes granulation work so appealing. The difficulty with this technique is to get the melting point of the gold just right, because if the granulation beads get just a tiny bit too hot, the work melts away immediately. Around 1920, Johann Michael Wilm in Munich was one of the first goldsmiths in the 20th century to produce granulations that could stand comparison with their antique counterparts; Elisabeth Treskow then began producing granulations of a high design standard in Essen around 1930. Treskow's jewellery collection can be admired today in the Museum of Applied Arts in Cologne. The ring features a green tourmaline weighing approximately six carats in the centre. The stone, a so-called verdelite, shines in an intense forest green colour. It is very clear and bright, i.e. of very good quality. The light plays wonderfully in the stone, like rays of sunlight between leaves on a warm summer's day. The tourmaline is set in a bent oval of gold, the surface of which is decorated with fine granulation in a diamond pattern. The plasticity of the granulation creates an enchanting interplay of light and shadow on the curved surface of the ring head. The ring is in very good condition. According to its workmanship and design, it was made in Germany. An independent expert opinion has confirmed the quality of the materials used.

Stima:€5,590

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