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Tutte le aste / Gioielli & Gemme / Floral Tiara With 16.76 ct of Diamonds in Gold & Silver, c. 1890

4d 21hDEHofer Antikschmuck

Floral Tiara With 16.76 ct of Diamonds in Gold & Silver, c. 1890

Floral Tiara With 16.76 ct of Diamonds in Gold & Silver, c. 1890

Even in ancient times, young women wore wreaths woven with fresh flowers. However, with the spread of Christianity from the Middle Ages onwards, these floral wreaths fell into oblivion, as they were associated with pagan customs. It was only after the French Revolution that brides, in particular, once again adorned their hair with flower wreaths. This beautiful tradition even reached the highest echelons of society: In 1840, Queen Victoria married her beloved Prince Albert, wearing a wreath of fresh orange blossoms in her hair. It was February, and these fragrant blooms had been specially procured for the occasion. In the following years, a great deal of jewellery was created in the form of various flowers. Made from wax and porcelain, but also from precious stones, headpieces were crafted not only for brides but also for a variety of festive occasions. The diadem in question appears like an eternal homage to the floral wreath: it consists of vines with small and large blossoms, from which teardrop-shaped elements dangle like dewdrops. A total of 493 diamonds, weighing approximately 16.76 carats, adorn each blossom and vine, and with every movement, several of the gemstones catch the light at just the right angle to radiate white brilliance and fiery sparkle. Through both its design and choice of materials, the diadem can be dated to around 1890. The craftsmanship in silver on gold, the large old cut diamonds, the so-called knife wires, and even the slightly oriental-looking forms in the smaller blossoms are all characteristic of that era. While, by 1900, diadems had already conformed to the cool neoclassicism of laurel garlands, the late 19th century saw a final flourish of opulent vines, extravagant forms, and floral motifs. No longer reserved for the aristocracy, women of the affluent bourgeoisie – provided they had the means, the confidence, and a love of fine jewellery – also wore diadems to dazzling evening events, shimmering in the glow of the first electric lights. Even today, the diadem has the power to transport the splendour and romantic spirit of the Belle Époque into our time. It is almost emblematic of its era, characterised by grandeur, joie de vivre, and a genuine appreciation for beauty. We are therefore delighted to present to you an exceptionally exquisite example of this now almost vanished type of jewellery. This piece came to us from the English Midlands and is in pristine condition. Please see David Bennet/Daniela Mascetti: Understanding Jewellery, Woodbridge 2010, pp. 206 f. for similar pieces.

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