Antique Art Nouveau Gold Brooch With Mother of Pearl, c. 1900

As the turn of the 20th century approached, contemporaries were aware that they were part of a new era. So serious had been the upheavals and innovations of the 19th century, so profoundly had human life changed, that even the traditional forms and ornaments no longer seemed appropriate. In search of a new, fresh language of form, jewellery designers also looked to nature. Not only the forms of flora and fauna, but also natural materials themselves became the focus of jewellery: in France, jewellers created necklaces from carved horn; in the USA, baroque Mississipi pearls were used for jewellery design. The present brooch is dedicated to the beauty of a material that was actually a byproduct of pearl fishing: the inside of the shell itself, covered with shimmering mother-of-pearl. From the perspective of Art Nouveau, which valued beauty more than material value, the mother-of-pearl itself also becomes a jewel. Like a work of art, it is framed between fine sweeps of high karat gold. This allows us to marvel at the beauty of the material: pink and green shimmer covers the mother-of-pearl, like an iridescent oil film on water. One pearl is mounted underneath. The symmetrical shape and slightly convex curvature of the brooch show that it was once intended to be worn centrally in front of the chest or on the collar of a high-necked blouse. The unique brooch is in very good condition. Hallmarks reveal that it was imported to the Netherlands and France in earlier times. Recently we were able to discover it in Berlin. Where will her journey take her next?

Stima:€1,980

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